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SADDLE STITCHING VS. MACHINE SEWING

One of the characteristics that makes a LeatherworX product unique is that we handstitch all of our pieces

One verses two threads

To make it easy, let's start by comparing a single line of stitching on a finished product. When you use a machine, that line of stitching requires two separate threads that lock around each other in what is known as a "locking stitch". Whereas, a hand-stitched line uses a single thread with needles on either end. The thread runs back and forth on either side of the leather in what is called a "running stitch".

Leather workshop

Which is stronger?

Technically speaking, the hand-stitched piece that uses the "running stitch" provides a stronger and more durable construction than the machine sewn piece that uses the "locking stitch". 
If a thread were to snap on a piece that uses a sewing machine, the entire line of thread could potential unravel allowing the two pieces of leather to separate. However in a hand-stitched piece, the thread will not unravel and the leather pieces will not separate from each other. More importantly, it's easier to repair the line of stitching.

Function and design

For me, the look of the finished product is just as important as the construction of it. After all, our products are meant to be worn and displayed. Using the tools, materials and techniques of hand-stitching allows us to make very deliberate choices when we design a piece. 

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The size and type of thread we use along with the stitches-per-inch and technique help to contribute to the overall aesthetic of a product. As a designer, I take pride in the overall design of a finished product. But as an artisan, my pride rests in a beautifully executed line of stitching. 

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The primary stitch we use is Saddle but for some of our products we also use Corset and/or Baseball stitch which gives this products a unique look and feel.

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What it means to me?

One of the challenges of hand-stitching leather is that it takes a significantly longer time to produce an item. When you combine the time, durability and refined aesthetic of a hand-stitched piece, it's easy to see why the price of hand-stitched leather can be more than that of items that are machine-sewn. But it's also easy to see that hand-stitched items are meant to last a lifetime. 

 

As an artisan, I'm in love with the process of my work. Similar to a musician or sculptor, there's a training of your hands and a connection to the overall creative process. 

Leather Care

Leather products are designed for a lifetime of use. Be sure to care for your leather product to ensure it ages beautifully.  In general, never use household cleaners, alcohol or abrasives to care for your product.

 

Occasionally wipe it with a clean soft cloth and use a natural leather conditioner and cleaner to restore it's characteristics. Should your leather become wet, try absorbing the moisture with a cloth and letting air dry for 24 hours.  Scratches and marks are a natural result of using your product. It's something that should be welcome and helps to age it properly.

 

Should you get a scratch or mark on your leather, try working it out with your hands, using the natural oils in your skin to reduce the appearance of the mark. Bend the leather and rub it lightly with your fingertips and palm. With time the mark or scratch will reduce slightly and blend into the natural patina of the leather.  

 

Should you have any questions about the care and use of your product, feel free to email us andrew@leatherworX.co.za.

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